48 Hours in Amman

If you imagine a city built like a puzzle, with hills as the edges and streets slipping between them like hidden connectors, you are beginning to understand Amman. Layers of white stone rise and tumble, carrying footprints from Romans who once filled the 6,000‑seat amphitheatre downtown to today’s students balancing coffee cups while poring over books in terraces that catch the morning sun. Over the next two days, you’ll trace these overlaps — wandering from quiet cafés where the aroma of cardamom lingers long after the last sip, to bookshops that double as miniature gardens, and rooftops that frame the city in its thousand subtle inclines. The capital of Jordan is a city of strata, and every alley, courtyard, and plate of slow‑cooked lamb is a way to read it. Friday

08:00 – Morning Coffee at Rumi Café (JOD 3 - JOD 5)

Jabal Al‑Weibdeh is arguably Amman's most eclectic neighbourhood, and sitting right at its centre is the beloved Rumi Café. Opened in 2013 as a “neighbourhood café,” it has grown into a local favourite thanks to its clean minimal design, terrace seating and steady coffee focus. You’ll find Turkish coffee, cold brew, cardamom‑latte and house‑baked pastries. Sit by the large windows or on the terrace and watch Amman awaken. 09:00 – The Street Art Walk in Jabal Amman (Free ‑ JOD 2)

After coffee, step out into the surrounding streets of Jabal Amman. The area is dotted with murals, stencils and graffiti created by local artists. These visual pieces map the city’s modern creative energy and tell stories of youth culture, urban change and neighbourhood identity. 12:00 – Contemporary Art at Darat al Funun (Free ‑ JOD 2)

Head to Darat al Funun on Rainbow Street. Housed in a cluster of early‑20th‑century stone villas, this art space shows contemporary Arab artists and supports cultural interchange. The garden terraces look toward downtown and hold relics of Roman‑era construction beneath their surface. 14:00 – Lunch at Sufra Restaurant (JOD 18 ‑ JOD 25)

Lunch at Sufra, in a restored villa on Rainbow Street with a serene garden terrace and clay‑brick ovens. Try their mansa, which is lamb cooked in fermented yoghurt served over rice in a clay pot or the magloubeh, comprised of rice layered with vegetables and lamb, and turned upside‑down before serving. 16:00 – The Good Bookshop (JOD 3 ‑ JOD 4 + optional book)

In the mid‑afternoon, visit The Good Bookshop, tucked just off Rainbow Street in Jabal Amman. This hybrid café‑bookshop is a social‑enterprise rooted in Jordan, carrying Arabic and English titles, craft stationery, and offering a garden‑terrace where you can drink coffee and browse books in a relaxed rhythm. 19:00 – Dinner with View at Néos Sunset Rooftop (JOD 16 ‑ JOD 20)

As daylight recedes, move to Néos Sunset Rooftop in the Abdali district. The terrace gives panoramic skyline views; the menu combines modern dishes (try the burrata salad or salmon gravlax sandwich) and mezze‑sharing. Watching the sun slide behind the hills while city lights begin to glitter gives a sense of the city’s geography. 22:00 – Nightcap at Off The Record (JOD 8 ‑ JOD 12)

End the day at Off The Record, a speakeasy‑style bar in Um Uthaina. Dim lighting, vintage décor, jazz or blues in the air — the place is tucked away, unmarked, secretive. It frames the city’s nightlife from a vantage of calm, sophistication and subtle sound. The cocktails are handcrafted, while the setting invites conversation and quiet closure. Saturday

08:00 – Walk Through Wasfi Al Tal Forest (JOD 2 ‑ JOD 4)

Begin the morning with a drive out to the forest‑park of Wasfi Al Tal Forest in the Al Balqa district just beyond central Amman. Pine and oak trees line the winding trails, occasional clearings provide panoramic views of the city below, and the soft hush replaces urban noise. Early light filters through the trees, the air holds the scent of resin and distant hills, and for a moment the city’s hills feel very different when seen from the outside in. 09:00 – Souk Jara Artisan Market (Free ‑ JOD 5)

Return to the city and visit Souk Jara, an open‑air market along Fawzi Al Maalouf Street near Rainbow Street. It features handmade jewellery, ceramics, textiles and local art, alongside fresh juices and street food. 12:00 – Lunch at a Jabal Amman Restaurant (JOD 5 - JOD 15)

Plan a midday stop at Mijana, a long-running restaurant set across several floors in Jabal Amman. Its upper levels open onto views of the surrounding hills, and the rooftop is often noted for its clear outlook over the neighborhood. The kitchen focuses on well-known regional dishes prepared with consistent care, making it a reliable option for a simple lunch at a moderate price. Traditional desserts such as kunafa and baklava are often singled out, adding a sweet finish to a visit to one of the area’s enduring dining spots. 14:00 – Afternoon at The Hangar, Ras Al‑Ain (JOD 5 ‑ JOD 10)

Walk or take a short ride to The Hangar, a converted 1930s industrial building in Ras Al‑Ain. Once part of the city’s electricity plant, the space now hosts contemporary art exhibitions, design fairs, and installations. The high ceilings, concrete walls and exposed steel reflect Amman’s urban evolution. 16:00 – Coffee & Browsing at The Good Bookshop (JOD 3 - JOD 4 + optional book)

Return to Jabal Amman and head to The Good Bookshop, a café-bookshop hybrid with Arabic and English titles, local artisan stationery, and a garden terrace. Spend the late afternoon reading, sipping coffee, and soaking in the calm rhythm that contrasts with the city’s never-ending bustle. 19:00 – Dinner in Jabal Luweibdeh (JOD 10 ‑ JOD 15)

Dine at a charcoal‑grill favourite in Jabal Luweibdeh. The mixed-grill plate features kebbeh, kafta, and chicken, accompanied by fattoush and yoghurt dip. Modest lighting and a relaxed crowd make this dinner feel like a genuinely local experience. 22:00 – Nightcap at Dunia Rooftop (JOD 8 ‑ JOD 12)

Cap your 48 hours at Dunia Rooftop on Al Farabi Street. The open-air terrace lets you watch Amman’s hills glow under nightfall, while sipping cocktails or mocktails.