This Town Perched Atop the Mountains is Iraq’s Best Kept Secret

In the 2022 edition of ‘Cunk on Christmas’ on the BBC, Philomena Cunk—an ill-informed investigative reporter, played by Diane Morgan—asks an actual historian, “How many three wise men are there?” Now, while the answer to that question was settled long before it was asked, another question was perhaps left unanswered: Where are the three wise men actually from? 

In Christianity, the three wise men are foreigners “from the east” who presented baby Jesus with gifts of gold. According to Iraqi Kurdistan tradition, the town of El Amadiya—also known as Amedi—is the birthplace of the three wise men. But where exactly is El Amadiya, and how does it fare in the 21st century?

Tucked away in the province of Duhok in the Kurdistan region of Iraq, El Amadiya is a town 570 kilometres north of Baghdad, perched atop a grand flat plateau amidst the mountains. With a population of 11,000 people of multiple religions and ethnicities, this town, spanning only one square kilometre, is perhaps a relic of olden times and one of the greatest historical, cultural, and geographical treasures of Iraqi Kurdistan. 

El Amadiya offers stunning views of the surrounding landscape, with its secluded location atop the plateau making it feel almost cut off from the rest of the world. The houses are tightly nestled together, each painted in a vibrant hue—corals, blues, and teals that shine brightly against the brown of the surrounding mountain terrain. 

Believed to have been built over 3,000 years ago, the town was once part of the Assyrian Empire. Today, it retains that historical spirit, with the Bahdinan Gate—a nearly 14-metre-high stone gate—looking as though it was taken straight from the pages of a history book, preserved in perfect condition. From afar, El Amadiya may even resemble a nest of some grand, otherworldly mythical eagle. 

Though El Amadiya receives a fair number of local tourists from Iraq, it remains relatively unknown to international travellers—a true shame for such a remarkable destination. A visit to El Amadiya typically begins in the city of Duhok, where travellers can start their journey by taxi, rented car, or other available vehicles. However, El Amadiya is best suited for a short excursion, as the town itself lacks hotels, with the nearest accommodations located about three kilometres away from its gate, and the only accommodation offered is a rug in the town’s mosque. 

Given that El Amadiya is confined by its natural borders, the town has grown inward, creating an environment that, while seemingly crowded, feels cosy and fosters a strong sense of community, home to Muslims, Christians, and Jews alike.

So, though quaint and quiet, El Amadiya seems to possess a certain allure that can be largely attributed to its remoteness, making it well worth a solo day trip with a well-packed picnic, a handpicked book, and an adventurous friend in hand.